Monday, February 9, 2015

Daintree Rainforest (Tuesday, Feb. 10)

The day began early. We are doing pretty well adjusting to the time difference, but are waking up early. Alan went back down to the beach to catch the sunrise since it had been cloudy the day before. This time was a success with a beautiful sunrise.

We gathered our cameras, etc. and headed to breakfast and a 7:40 a.m. pick up by the Daintree Discovery Tour folks. GoNext, the travel agency we came with, had a Daintree rain forest tour, but Alan wanted to see what other tours might be available. We looked at several brochures and settled on the Daintree Discovery Tour. It was a great decision. 

We toured with Cam, our guide, Steph & Nick, newlyweds from Melbourne, a couple from Great Britain and two men from Dallas for a total of nine. Cam, our guide and a naturalist by profession, had a wealth of knowledge about the history of the area, the rain forest and its plants and animals. The Daintree rain forest is the oldest, continually sustained rain forest in the world.  It is especially noteworthy since it directly connects to the Great Barrier Reef, like the Daintree, a World Heritage site. 


We began our day with a guided walk through the rain forest on an aerial walkway in Mossman Gorge. Cam pointed out various plants, showing us the leaf structure and the different methods various plants used to make it to the top of the canopy and sunlight. We saw plants in symbiotic as well as parasitic relationships. It was fascinating to see how plants adapt such things as:


  • root structure for moist, soft ground, 
  • how large ferns grow near the tops of trees, collecting falling leaves and water for nourishment.


We came across a 6- or 7-inch spider (including legs) near our walkway.  We stopped to watch her eat a fly that Cam caught and had been bugging us (she became our hero then!).  After the fly was subdued, we watched her spin more of her web to repair the damage made by the fly.




We also saw a couple of small lizards and an Australian bushturkey who was busy crafting her nest out of fallen leaves into a sizable pile.  The bushturkey is about 30 inches tall, and though it resembles the North American turkey, it is a very different species.  People thought that one of the lizards was actually a snake, hanging around and plotting how to get either a turkey dinner or at least some scrambled eggs, but after looking at the pictures, it was clear that our "snake" had legs!"

Twice during the day, we crossed the Daintree River by ferry.  The height of
the river varies greatly due to both the ocean tides and the level of rainfall, so building a bridge isn't an especially feasible option.  Boarding a ferry is the most efficient way of crossing.


Our next stop was the Alexander Lookout for a panoramic view of the Daintree river as it empties into the ocean. The rain forest is a vital part of the sustainability of the coral reef. From the lookout we saw Snake Island and Low Isles, which we had seen from the catamaran on our way to the reef.

From Alexander Lookout it was on to Cape Tribulation. Captain Cook named Cape Tribulation, acknowledging the difficulty he had navigating in the area of the Great Barrier Reef. Of course, this was uncharted waters for westerners, and the coral reef is very near the surface throughout this area, which covers space the size of Great Britain.  His ship ran aground close to this Cape. 


There is an absolutely beautiful cove where the rain forest meets the sea. It was sunny and the water was very blue. We walked the beach and then through the rain forest to a lookout for great view of both water and mountains. Cam gave us about half an hour to explore the area on our own. We even took flat Pete to view the water and get his picture taken. 





When we gathered at the van, Cam took us on a short walk to look at interesting insects he found. Each had selected a place to "hide in plain sight" by choosing a place that matched it's coloring. 








The most interesting was the peppermint stick insect. It was long and green and was resting on a leaf that looked like a larger version of a blade of grass. It was hard to spot unless you looked at the leaf from underneath so the insect's shadow was visible. When touched, the peppermint stick insect sprayed a white substance that smells like peppermint. 

We had lunch in a rain forest clearing in a private park, under a shelter-like structure. We explored along a clear, babbling stream bank with large fish coming to greet us while Cam set out our lunch. It was sort of a boxed lunch with a large multi-grain roll, meat, and salads, all very tasty. We sat across from our newly-wed friends and talked about their life in Melbourne and their wedding on the past week-end. We also learned about Vegemite and had a chance to sample it.



After eating and packing up, we headed to the Daintree Ice Cream Company for dessert. They grow fruit for their ice cream we had never heard of, but it was delicious. The flavors change each day.  Cam had encouraged us to try it even if it didn't sound good. We all chose the 4 flavor sampler that had macadamia, banana, black sapote, and wattleseed.  One of them tasted like chocolate, and another like hazelnut.  He was pleased to collect eight empty containers as we all liked it.  Apparently sometimes the flavors don't go over well with the guests!


After ice cream, we drove back a private drive to a 4-wheel drive vehicle that had definitely seen better days. Seven of us climbed on the bench seats in back with Cam and one of the men in front. We were headed to Cassowary Falls located on a private cattle station. After bumping along a dirt trail and driving through two small creeks, we arrived at the falls.

The water dropped a couple hundred feet creating a small pool of water. As we walked  up we saw a water dragon sunning on a rock and several turtles sunning themselves on a fallen rock across the pond. Cam assured us the pool was crocodile-free and five of our group and Cam went swimming. Alan and Joyce preferred to watch from dry land while sitting on the rocks.  It was a gorgeous, peaceful place.

After the swim, Cam brought out fish and turtle food and began feeding them. The turtles came from across the pond, and fish jumped to grab the food. One would have never guess there were so many fish swimming in and around our group! The people that were in the water were even more shocked. There was even a sizable eel that joined in the frenzy.




Speaking of cassowary, this was prime country to see a cassowary.  This is a large bird, much like an ostrich or emu, but is native to this part of the world, and apparently is 'prettier'.  The birds are about 5 to 6 feet tall and have a cushioned helmet that protects their head.  We didn't get to see one, but we saw numerous signs warning us that they could be crossing the road.  Like many animals we've seen, the female lays the eggs, but the male is responsible for raising the chicks.  Apparently they don't do a great job, since several of the chicks are usually lost to predators, but he usually nurses at least one along to adulthood.

Our day in the rain forest ended with a hunt for a crocodile.  The crocodile is the main predator in this part of the world, at least near the river.  There are humans who become croc lunches occasionally, but that isn't a common occurrence. Nonetheless, we were given pretty clear warnings to keep our arms and other dangly parts inside the boat, to not cause any temptation.  

We boarded a pontoon boat, that was pretty spacious for the eight of us.  Our guide had spent his life on this part of the river and knew it, and it's inhabitants well.  Because the air temperature was quite warm and we were late in the day, we found that most of the crocs were sleeping; some can be underwater for up to 3 hours without surfacing.  As reptiles, they use their environment to maintain their body temperature.  We had quite a bit of rain the previous day, and some while we were touring, so the cooler water coming down from the mountains might have been enticing them.  There had been some sightings earlier in the day, but when we visited their stomping grounds, all we could see were the slide marks where they had slid into the brush or into the river.  

Our guide was quite disgusted with a couple of the local farmers who were letting their cattle down into the river, without a fence to keep them in their paddock (field).  Some of the smaller ones were tempting meals for the crocodiles.  We even chased a cow that was fully in the river (probably to cool off) back to shore with the boat.

We headed downstream, and came across Barrett, a saltwater crocodile, who seemed to be in charge of this area.  Each kilometer of the river or so becomes the territory of these large animals, and the locals call them by name.  To be honest, Barrett was so still that we couldn't be fully convinced that he wasn't a plastic replica just to make us think that we had seen a crocodile in the wild.  We floated down the river a bit further to see if there were any other interesting sightings, and when we returned, we caught Barrett with his mouth wide open in an apparent yawn.  Now we were fully convinced, even though we were too slow with the cameras to convince you!

We had a relatively quiet trip back to Port Douglas, though Cam still did a good job of describing the sugar cane economy, the landmarks we passed, and answering questions about the local community, including places to eat.  

After a short rest, we took the local shuttle bus back into Port Douglas to search for supper.  One of the recommended places for a moderately priced seafood dinner was a place near the marina called 'On the Inlet'.  Moderately clearly means something different here, but we enjoyed a very good meal of locally caught fish in an open-air environment on the Inlet.  A storm looked like it would hit us, but we were fine.  

We looked at a couple of shops on the way back to pick up the shuttle, but we were pretty beat, so we headed back to the hotel pretty quickly after supper.  We had an early departure for the airport in Cairns the next day, so we needed to regroup and repack for the trip to Sydney.


Sunday, February 8, 2015

Great Barrier Reef Pictures































Great, big, Barrier Reef (Monday, Feb 9)


Coconuts on Four-Mile Beach
We went to sleep pretty easily, and not too surprisingly, last night. The room is lovely. It's on the second floor with a balcony, a bathroom that has walls of frosted glass, a jacuzzi big enough for more than two people (we haven't made that good of friends on the trip yet), and a very comfortable bed. Alan woke up about 3 am, and only slept fitfully until we rose about 5:15. 

Sand Crabs clearing out their 'den' after high tide
The "Stingers" are jelly fish that inflict
 a nasty sting in this area at this time.  
The reason for the early rising was to find what we hoped to be a spectacular sunrise on Four-Mile Beach. Once we stepped out of our room, we were reminded that we are in the tropics. It was raining. We returned to the room, changed the style of our foot wear, and collected our rain ponchos. In five minutes we were on the beach looking for that elusive sunrise (about 6:10 am). We watched sand crabs clearing out the sand brought by the tides to their 'dens', a never-ending proposition. In spite of the rain and the clouds, we were still overwhelmed by the majesty and vastness of God's creation.

We returned to our room and got cleaned up and prepared for the day.  We had a buffet breakfast that reminded us more of the breakfasts that we have had abroad than American breakfasts, including roasted tomatoes, unsweetened yoghurt, lots of fruit, and hot tea. We haven't yet learned to take our tea with milk, as they do here. Alan made arrangements for our tour of the Daintree rainforest tomorrow.  Then it was time to gather for the bus ride into the Port Arthur harbor.

As an aside, for those of you wondering, when water goes down the drain here, the Swirl is clockwise (as opposed to 'anti-clockwise', as they say here).  I'll leave it to you to conduct your own experiment in the northern hemisphere. Feel to report your results in the comments. 

Next stop:The Great Barrier Reef. We boarded the bus for the short drive to the Port Douglas Reef Marina. As we left the bus, We were handed our tickets for the Quicksilver reef experience. We were early, so we browsed some tourist shops before boarding a large catamaran type boat specially designed to carry about 425 passengers, go fast and basically skim the surface. 

Since we were early, we found seats near the front of the boat facing forward. The sky was cloudy, with a light rain falling and the trade winds blowing. Seas were predicted to be rough, so Joyce put on sea bands and took Dramamine.

Staghorn Coral
We were headed to the Outer reef, Agincourt Reef, the southern most part of the ribbon reef along the continental shelf approximately 60 km away. It took us about 90 minutes to get there. As we headed to deeper water, the waves were larger and the boat moved quite a bit. Joyce was pleasantly surprised that the ride was enjoyable with no motion sickness or anxiety. Unfortunately the same could not be said for several other passengers. The crew was very attentive and trained to spot people in distress.  Two marine biologists were on board and we were treated to a short talk on the reef. One thing we learned is there are fish that live approximately 30 years and mate for life.  Four of the more than 400 species of coral were identified as staghorn, brain, mushroom and plate.

As we neared the reef the seas became calmer and the sky cleared to partly cloudy with  patches of sunlight. The water was beautiful, blue and clear. Near the horizon we could see breaking waves at the edge of the reef  between us and the continental shelf and a sharp drop-off.  The side of the reef we were on is much more shallow and conducive to calmer and safer viewing.  We arrived at the platform at approximately 11:30 a.m.

Quicksilver has a three story floating platform with everything you can imagine for reef viewing There were all sizes of fins, flotation jackets, snorkels, masks and diving equipment, etc. Lunch was even served! We walked around to begin with get a handle on what was available.

Underwater Observatory
We first used the underwater observatory. There weren't a lot of fish, but we enjoyed looking at the coral and watching a diver and one of the lifeguards enjoy a beginning-of-the-day swim.


One of the larger fish on the
Great Barrier Reef
We took a lot of pictures throughout the day, but the diffusion of light underwater evidently fooled the camera more than it fooled our eyes!  


The semi-submersible boat/observatory
took us on a short spin around the reef
to view fish and coral, and even squid and
turtles.. 
As we left the underwater observatory, we saw the line for the semi-submersible boat was short(er), so that was our next adventure. We were probably about 10 feet underwater and spent
approximately 25 minutes traveling in a large circle.

Blue and yellow were the main coral colors, with some red tips. We saw all the coral identified earlier by the marine biologist, many of them every large, We saw two sea turtles, jelly fish, rain fish who traveled in large schools and darted very quickly. We saw several larger fish as well as rasp, the small cleaner fish, which the larger fish allow to swim in, around, and through their gills to keep their teeth and skin clean. The size, variety of coral and fish were almost indescribable. 

We saw a number of clown fish ('Nemos').  We learned that all clown fish are born as males, and there is only one female per group.  If something happens to the female, the largest male grows even more and becomes a female in the span of about 2 weeks.  Some of the other fish that we saw mate for life.  It's an amazing world down there!

The motion of the boat and the warm temperature made both Alan & Joyce a little queasy. We left the boat and sat for several minutes in the fresh air before enjoying a lunch buffet of seafood, salads, fruit and bread. 

The launching area for the snorkelers.
They could then proceed out into more
open water, marked off by buoys.
Alan had decided not to snorkel, given the difficult conditions and his lack of swimming skills, but Joyce was still considering it. We watched those that were snorkeling and noticed they seemed to be fighting the waves. Joyce decided her limited experience in a pool would not be enough to produce an enjoyable experience. Those decisions were confirmed by one of our fellow passengers in the buffet line who had some experience snorkeling and said that the conditions were very difficult for him, to the point that he didn't enjoy it as much as he thought he would.

At around 2:15 p.m. we headed back to the boat to get seated for the return to Port Douglas. Many of our fellow passengers had returned ahead of us and all the seats inside were taken. We found seats on the back deck outside on the 2nd level. Next came the passenger count, which is no small task with over 400 people aboard. We were told to stay in one place from the announcement until the count was finished and an 'all clear' was given. As you can imagine, people had difficulty with the concept of sitting still. After counting all the passengers  three times to make sure all were aboard, we left the reef at approximately 3 p.m. We were told by people seated next to us that last year a woman was missed in the count and drowned, so we certainly understood their caution. 

The semi-permanent,anchored reef platform.  It holds more than
400 guests in addition to numerous staff members to interpret the
reef, and feed them!
As we left the reef and headed toward shore, the wind picked up and storm clouds became visible. It started raining lightly at first, then came down in sheets. We grabbed our stuff and headed inside, which was a challenging task the way the boat was pitching. We finally found a place with two empty seats. The waves became larger as we made our way into the shipping channel with deeper water. We 'weathered' the experience fine with neither of us getting sick or panicked. Unfortunately, our fellow passengers weren't as fortunate.  One of the staff members working with some of the less fortunate around us said that it wasn't unusual to experience some rough seas coming back, but said this was a 'special' experience.  We were glad to see the Port Douglas Marina!

While driving back to our hotel, Midge, our GoNext contact, told us about a previous trip with similar weather. There was a priest from Notre Dame in the group and she jokingly turned to him and said, "Father, can't you do anything about this weather?" He replied, "No, I'm in sales, not production."

We were very tired when we made it back to our room. We decided to take a short nap, but should have set an alarm, because we slept for two hours. After our nap, we went to the hotel restaurant and looked over their menu. We weren't very hungry and nothing looked good (and of course, Alan wasn't prepared to pay the high Australian prices for food that didn't sound that appetizing!). We tried to use the internet with limited success and with the help of Kendra at the front desk, settled on ordering a four-cheese pizza and a couple sodas. It was very good. After a bubble in our in-room Jacuzzi, we ended our first amazing day in Australia.

Saturday, February 7, 2015

It's a long day! (Friday, Feb 6-Sunday, Feb 8)

We left Lafayette about 1 for the drive to Avon where Alan's brother took us the last 15 minutes to the airport.  As usual, we got to the gate in plenty of time, with probably our quickest trip through security yet. We then had a relatively quick trip to Dallas-Fort Worth, an hour's wait or so by the time  we got to the international gate, and a pretty uneventful boarding. We were settled in when the captain gave us the good news that we had a quick flight plan, but the bad news that with that plan we would arrive before the Sydney curfew of 6 am was over.  So we waited on the Tarmac and will take it easy getting there.

While we were waiting he told us that this is the longest  flight in the world at 14000 km, and that we were carrying 2700 tons of fuel. Not to worry, we should still have 15 tons left when we land. 

We left Dallas at dusk on Friday and we are getting to Sydney at dawn on Sunday. We were flying for nearly 17 hours and missed a day and a half on the ground...it's all kind of weird.  

After clearing customs, the ETA visa we did over the internet instead of going through the travel agency...saving a decent amount of money...worked without a problem. We collected our luggage, transferred to Quantas Domestic and then had a three hour layover, with free wifi to monitor the Boilermaker vs Minnesota basketball game, though the start of the second half wasn't much fun. We were scheduled to arrive in Cairns around noon local time, but there were some technical difficulties before we left, so our arrival was delayed as well.  By the way, Cairns is pronounced 'Cans' over here and that part of Queensland is an hour behind Sydney time, so I think that is 15 hours ahead of Indiana time, for those of you keeping track at home. 

We collected our luggage and then boarded a bus for about an hour's ride up the Captain Cook Highway, a scenic road along the Great Barrier Reef lagoon to our hotel in Port Douglas.   It was windy but there were some fantastic views.  We were both pretty groady and Alan was feeling the effects of his 'back-of-the-bus' ride, not hearing from the plane descent, and no breathing drugs since Friday, so we got to our studio apartment, took showers and rested while waiting for our luggage. The guide on the way up told us they had just received about 13 inches of rain, which supposedly cut the humidity...though this is clearly a tropical area.

A bit refreshed, we returned to the main area to take care of some business and make some decisions for our later time in Port Douglas. Later we went back for a lovely buffet,with a number of fresh seafood items, like prawns (the size of your hand!), bugs (an Australian cross between a lobster and a crab), oysters, salmon, and beef sirloin.  

We have an early day planned for tomorrow, hopefully starting with a sunrise on four-mile Beach, followed by a day at the Great Barrier Reef.  

We'll add a few pictures to today's post when we have more convenient Internet access, so check back.



Thursday, February 5, 2015

Getting ready

The passports are out and copied.  Suitcases are ready and weighed, clothes are clean, meds counted, electronic equipment checked out, and refrigerator cleaned. The weather forecast to get out of Lafayette looks good, so we should be set to leave at midday tomorrow (or is that early Saturday morning in Australia?) to start about a day and a half of traveling.

Our itinerary for the trip is located over on the right side of the page. Please feel free to send messages and comments, especially if you've been to these places and have recommendations. 
You can also see the current and near future weather and the current time (GMT +11 for Sydney; Lafayette is GMT -5) for Down Under over on the right.